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Before the Chinese showed up in the seventeenth century, Taiwan was home to Polynesian peoples speaking languages related to Filipino, Hawaiian, Indonesian, Maori, and the others.

Some paleoanthropologists have argued that Taiwan is in fact the original homeland from which all these peoples scattered; but I don’t know the current status of this theory.

Still, it’s nice to spend an aggregate hour or so on subway platforms without seeing a single rat.

If it’s nice, likeable cities you’re after though, I recommend Kaohsiung in Taiwan’s southwest.

We saw precious few non-Chinese, though, and we were by no means slumming it.

We stayed in a tourist hotel — not a grand one, but decently nice — and ambled among the crowds in touristy places like the Shilin Night Market and the National Palace Museum. or at any rate East Asian: I suppose some proportion were tourists from Japan and Korea. Outside a few minor and particular social contexts, the Chinese don’t mind foreigners. Still they would never be such bloody fools as to invite foreign settlement in numbers so great as to demographically challenge the native stock.

At the risk of offending the city god of Taipei, I have to say that Taiwan’s capital is a charmless place, hard to like.

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This is a minus because smog gets trapped in the bowl.Many more Taiwanese than that have some aborigine ancestry, though.One of President Tsai’s grandmothers was an aborigine.So they don’t have to work, just wait for the rent checks. (Although it is of course wicked to notice.) There is a tough, husky, aggressive variety of Chinese male much more in evidence in the homelands than in the U. I once had a Chinese boss who had served in Taiwan’s equivalent of the Marine Corps.He was one of those still, quiet, scary types who gave the impression that when hungry he might chow down on a brick. Instead, a busy, prosperous, and distinctive nation has emerged; except that you’re not supposed to call it a nation.(I grind my teeth on the word “prosperous” there.It may not even outlast the present dictator of communist China, Xi Jinping, who is exceptionally aggressive and assertive, although so far mainly against his own domestic political opponents. When I lived here in 1971 Chiang Kai-shek’s government was struggling to hold on to China’s seat on the U. Everyone assumed that if the Security Council seat was lost, paratroopers of the People’s Liberation Army would be descending from the skies in companies and battalions shortly afterwards. Software, including the software that processes your keystrokes, is written for the much bigger mainland market.